Kite Surfing

Kite Surfing

HISTORY

Kiteboarding is a surface water sport combining aspects of wakeboarding, windsurfing, surfing, paragliding, and gymnastics into one extreme sport. A kite boarder harnesses the power of the wind with a large controllable power kite to be propelled across the water on a kiteboard similar to a wakeboard or a small surfboard, with or without foot straps or bindings.

Kite surfers use inflatable kites tethered to harnesses to glide through water and air. Kite surfing is still in its infancy, but is quickly becoming a safer sport due to innovations in kite design and safety systems. Many riding styles have evolved to suit different types of riders.

And it all started in the 1800s, George Pocock used kites of increased size to propel carts on land and ships on the water, using a four-line control system - the same system in common use today. Both carts and boats were able to turn and sail upwind. The kites could be flown for sustained periods. The intention was to establish kite power as an alternative to horsepower, partly to avoid the hated "horse tax" that was levied at that time.

In 1903, aviation pioneer Samuel Cody developed "man-lifting kites" and succeeded in crossing the English Channel in a small collapsible canvas boat powered by a kite.

In the late 1970s, the development of Kevlar then Spectra flying lines and more controllable kites with improved efficiency contributed to practical kite traction. In 1978, Ian Day's "FlexiFoil" kite-powered Tornado catamaran exceeded 40 km/h.

In October 1977 Gijsbertus Adrianus Panhuise (Netherlands) received the first patent for Kitesurfing. The patent covers, specifically, a water sport using a floating board of a surf board type where a pilot standing up on it is pulled by a wind catching device of a parachute type tied to his harness on a trapeze type belt.

In November 1984 two brothers, Bruno Legaignoux and Dominique Legaignoux, from the Atlantic coast of France, developed kites for kitesurfing in the late 1970s and early 1980s and patented an inflatable kite design.In 1990, practical kite buggying was pioneered by Peter Lynn at Argyle Park in Ashburton, New Zealand. Lynn coupled a three-wheeled buggy with a forerunner of the modern parafoil kite. Kite buggying proved to be very popular worldwide, with over 14,000 buggies sold up to 1999.

BASIC TECHNIQUES

But safety first:

Kites can be dangerous. Because of strong forces that can be generated by sudden wind gusts, people can be carried off, dashed against water, buildings, terrain or power lines, resulting in what's termed a "kite-mare" (kite + nightmare).

1. Avoid kite surfing in crowded areas, near rocks, trees, or power lines. In general there should be a minimum of 100 meters of safe distance from all obstructions.
2. Try to ride with side-shore winds. Avoid offshore or directly onshore winds.
3. Pay attention to changing weather and wind conditions. If you feel a static shock from the kite bar, land the kite immediately and seek shelter.
4. Do not remove or disable factory-installed safety equipment or releases.
5. Never use a board leash without wearing a helmet. A helmet is a wise precaution in most circumstances whether you use a board leash or not, but never use a board leash without wearing a helmet.
6. Avoid riding overpowered. Using too large a kite for the wind conditions or your experience level is extremely dangerous. Underpowered riding is preferable to overpowered riding. When in doubt, go to a smaller kite and see how it goes.
7. Be extra careful when landing or launching the kite. Ideally, don't spend any time on shore with the kite in the air; launch the kite and then leave the beach immediately, and when coming in, land as quickly as possible. When on shore, keep the kite low: if it's hit by a gust, it can drag the rider.
8. Carry a knife attached to the harness for cutting tangled lines. Tangles are dangerous because an entangled rider in the water may not be able free themselves quickly enough in the event the kite powers up suddenly. In a crash situation, with the kite in the water, under no circumstances allow a line to encircle a part of the body.

Now techniques:

1. You need about 8 - 10 knots (15 to 19 km/h, approx. 3 Beaufort) on a big kite (16 m²). In 8 - 10 knots (15 to 19 km/h) you can have a lot of fun by doing low jumps and freestyle manoeuvres.
2. 12 - 13 knots (22 to 24 km/h) on a 16 square meter kite will have you jumping high, while 17 - 20 knots (31 to 37 km/h) will have you flying with the birds on a 12 square meter kite.
3. A beginner can turn by going to the shallows or another stopping place, putting the kite up into neutral, and then turning the kite in the opposite direction. A quicker, more skilful turn moves the kite toward the wind, to swing the surfer's path in a half circle, centred on the kite. As the turn ends, the kite is flown over to be in front of the surfer again. Turns away from the wind steal lift.
4. A poorly executed turn will "fly" the surfer, and is often followed by a tumble if the surfer can't put the board down at the right angle. It is important to use safety equipment like a dead-man system where the kite lines can be detached from the surfer's harness quickly because the kite can (unintentionally) power up after tumbles and pull the rider under water or against objects at uncontrollable speeds. Safety knives are a must to quickly cut lines in the event of dangerous entanglements. After a tumble, untangling and re-launching the kite can be difficult. Experienced kite surfers try to keep the kite in the air.
5. If the kite is only turned partially, or is not straightened at the right rate, a turning surfer can swing up and be dragged into the air by the kite, then get hurt when he reconnects the surface. Even in water, flying a power kite can be a brutal contact sport. The kite is usually twenty meters (sixty feet) in the air, and a careless turn in high winds can easily swing one five meters (two stories) into the air and down to an uncontrolled contact.
6. Controlled flying is possible and one of the biggest attractions of the sport, but more difficult and potentially dangerous. Flying occurs when the momentum of the surfer pulls the kite. Before jumping, the surfer builds up as much tension as possible by accelerating and strongly edging the board. Then in controlled, straight flight, the kite is flown quickly (snapped) to an overhead position, usually just as the surfer goes over a wave. The kite must then be quickly turned to glide in the direction of motion, usually into the wind. A large variety of manoeuvres can be performed while jumping such as rotations, taking the board off one's feet etc. However, a kite surfer can also be flown into a nearby building, highway, or power lines if the move is poorly executed. At least 17 people have been killed in kite boarding-related accidents since 2000, according to a safety adviser for one of the sport's governing bodies.
7. Some kite claim to be able to catch a "rotor," a horizontally cyclonic ridge updraft, when flying above large waves or ridges in high wind. This extremely difficult and not recommended technique occurs only in dangerous surf and wind conditions, or above land.
8. To fly the maximum distance, a flyer should reduce aerodynamic drag. Some people recommend laying flat in the air as long as one can't reach the surface. Others claim that attempting this manoeuvre adds more danger to the already dangerous manoeuvre of flying.

RECORDS:

• Fastest speed kite surfing by a woman:The fastest speed kite surfing by a woman was 50.43 knots (93 km/h; 58 mph) achieved by Charlotte Consorti (France) at the 2010 Luderitz Speed Challenge in Luderitz, Namibia, on 28 October 2010
• Fastest speed kite surfing by a man:The fastest speed kite surfing was 55.65 knots (103 km/h; 64 mph) achieved by Rob Douglas (USA) at the 2010 Luderitz Speed Challenge in Luderitz, Namibia, on 28 October 2010
• Extraordinary winds at the Speed Challenge helped aid this record in falling multiple times during the event. Douglas, in fact, broke the previous record of 55.49 knots that was set only 14 minutes earlier.
• Longest journey kite surfing (male):The longest kite surfing journey is 199.63 nautical miles (369.71 km; 229.73 statute miles) and was achieved by Phillip McCoy Midler (USA) who travelled from South Padre Island, Texas to Matagorda, Texas, USA, from 10 to 11 May 2010.
• Longest journey kite surfing (female):The longest continuous kitesurfing journey by a woman is 135.16 nautical miles (250.32 km or 155.54 miles), achieved by Anke Brandt (Germany) between Amwaj Marina and Al Dar Island, Bahrain, on 1 March 2014.
• Most kite surfing world championships (female):The most kite surfing world championships won by a woman is nine and was achieved by Kristin Boese (Germany) between 2005 to 2008.This record includes both the PKRA and KPWT federations. A breakdown of Kristin's titles are as follows: 2005 PKRA Freestyle World Champion, 2005 PKRA Wave World Champion, 2006 PKRA Freestyle World Champion, 2006 PKRA Slider & Kicker World Champion, 2007 PKRA Boardercross World Champion, 2007 KPWT Overall World Champion, 2007 KPWT Wave World Champion, 2007 KPWT Course Racing World Champion, and 2008 KPWT Course Racing World Champion.
• Longest distance kite surfing in 24 hours:The longest distance kitesurfing in 24 hours is 645.6 km (401.2 miles) and was achieved by Rimas Kinka (Lithuania), off the coast of Islamorada, Florida, USA, on 26 February 2012.Kinka was also the previous holder for this category, he broke his own record.
• Youngest kite surfing world champion (female):The youngest kitesurfing world champion (female) is Gisela Pulido (b.14 January 1994, Spain) who won her first Kiteboard Pro World Tour (KPWT) world championship, on 4 November 2004 aged 10 years and 294 days. She also won her first Professional Kiteboard Riders Association (PKRA) championship on 26 August 2007 aged 13 years 224 days.
• Gisela Pulido is also the youngest athlete to be nominated for the Laureus Awards and four times Kitesurfing world champion, three in the KPWT series and one in the PKRA

Top kite surfing locations:

1. Maui, Hawaii
2. Dominican Republic
3. Tarifa, Spain
4. Cape Hatteras, NC, US
5. Jericoacoara, CE, Brazil
6. Safaga Bay , Egypt
7. Chumpon , Thailand
8. South Padre Island, TX, US
9. Santa Cruz, CAUS
10. Hood River, OR, US
11. Australia (various)
12. Tranque Puclaro, Chile
13. Costa Calma/Sotavento, Fuerteventura, Canary Isles, Spain
14. Corralejo, Fuerteventura, Canary Isles, Spain
15. Nitinat Lake, British Columbia, Canada
16. Western Cape, South Africa
17. Traverse City, Michigan
18. Jupiter, Florida, US
19. Bonaire, Dutch Antilles
20. Noordwijk Beach, The Netherlands
21. Sea of Galilee (Kineret), Israel.

some important links to look for more:

• http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kitesurfing
• http://www.kitesurfatlas.com/kitesurf-handbook/kitesurfing-techniques

Ice Climbing

Ice Climbing

History

Ice climbing evolved out of rock climbing and other mountaineering activities. In high altitudes, rock climbers had to learn how to navigate icy and slippery areas as they worked their way up a mountain or rock wall. Eventually, climbers began to develop specialized tools and gear to get through those icy spots. Over time, climbers began to seek out strictly ice climbs.

You can trace the birth of ice climbing back to 1908, when a climber named Oscar Eckenstein designed toothed claws, called crampons that fit into the bottom of his boot. These crampons allowed a climber to gain traction on the slippery ice. Before crampons were invented, ice climbers had to use step cutting, a laborious method of cutting foothold areas into the snow and ice with a pick or axe, to gain footing.

In the 1930s, climber Laurent Grivel made another significant advance. He added sharp fangs that jutted out in front of the crampons, which allowed climbers to navigate steeper ice. Then, in the 1960s, Yvon Chouinard, who went on to create the Patagonia clothing line, revolutionized the design of ice axes. First, he shortened the traditional 25-inch (63.5 cm) mountaineering axe down to 22 inches (55.8 cm). Next, he changed the shape of the traditional pick, which at that time was straight at a shallow angle to the axe's shaft. This shallow angle was fine for regular snow climbing, but wasn't effective on steeper snow and ice. His curved pick entered the ice more easily and was also easier to remove.

In the mountains, ice forms two ways: Alpine ice starts as snow and over time consolidates into hard-packed ice, sometimes called blue ice. Water ice, which forms anywhere you find runoff or seepage, is more varied. It may melt and freeze, form over snow, create large bumps and ridges and turn into icicles. Climbers like to fantasize that the ideal ice for climbing would start to form in the autumn, and the water source would be a rivulet seeping out of a rock wall. As the temperatures drop, the ice would become stronger and stronger and finally bond itself to the rock wall, creating an extremely strong surface on which to climb. Ideal temperatures to form ice for climbing is between 14 and 30 degrees F (minus 10 and minus 1 degree C). Colder temperatures cause more ice to form more quickly, but it will take a while for the ice bonds to become strong.

How do you know if ice is safe to climb? Ice can go from hard to brittle to slushy all in one day. Hard ice is very cold ice, packed with gravel and dirt, and a climber must use a lot of strength to penetrate this ice with the pick. When temperatures are well below freezing, you may encounter brittle ice, which tends to break off in plates when you swing your tool into it. Climbers call this unwelcome phenomenon dinner plating. Sometimes you can prevent dinner plating by using a light tapping method with your tool to gently get your pick into the ice. But if plating is inevitable, you may want to swing into the ice with force to clear everything in one go. When temperatures are near or above freezing, the ice will feel more like plastic. Your pick will sink in quickly and stay there, making climbing easier and faster. If temperatures are warming to above freezing, however, ice will become slushy and soft. Obviously, slushy ice won't support your pick or protection very well.

A good climber should be able to climb well on any type of ice, especially since you may encounter different kinds of ice on a single climb. Sometimes you can spec out the ice just by looking at it. Solid ice tends to look blue or blue-green and it may be stained yellow from minerals. White ice is usually full of air -- it's easy to climb but it may not support your ice screws. Chandelier ice is actually hundreds of fused icicles, and it's difficult to climb safely because it's not solid enough for ice screws.

When choosing your climb, use these cues to choose the safest area and look out for hanging icicles or unstable ice that could fall on you as you climb.

Techniques

A climber chooses equipment according to the slope and texture of the ice. For example, on flat ice, almost any good hiking or mountaineering boot will usually suffice, but for serious ice climbing double plastic mountaineering boots or their stiff leather equivalent are usually used, which must be crampon compatible and stiff enough to support the climber and maintain ankle support. On short, low angled slopes, one can use an ice axe to chop steps. For longer and steeper slopes or glacier travel, crampons are mandatory for a safe climb. Vertical ice climbing is done with crampons and ice axes (those specific to vertical ice generally being called technical ice axes, or ice tools); climbers kick their legs to engage the front points of the crampons in the ice, and then swing the axe into the ice above their heads. This technique is known as front pointing. The strength of the ice is often surprising; even if the axe goes in only a centimeter or so it is enough to pull up on. If a climber is leading, they will need to place ice screws as protection on the way up (see climbing system). Most mountaineers would only consider the last scenario true ice climbing; the less steep variations are routine aspects of winter mountaineering.

Some important techniques and practices common in rock climbing that are employed in ice climbing include knowledge of rope systems, tying in, belaying, leading, abseiling, and lowering. Beginners should learn these techniques before attempting to ice climb. It is highly recommended that one acquire knowledge from experts and experienced ice climbers.

Based on the terrain, ice climbers alternate between two basic techniques. The French technique, or flat floating, works best on low-angled slopes. You open your feet up and walk like a duck, which keeps all crampon points flat on the ice. As a slope's angle increases, this technique will become harder on your ankles, so you should switch to sidestepping. But sidestepping can be tricky because it's easy to snag one foot as it passes over the other. The German technique known as front pointing works best on very steep or vertical terrain. You kick your front crampon right into the ice and then step up.

Your mental picture of an ice climber may be a figure dangling from a glacier. But ice climbing also includes low-level walks in crampons. If you're walking on level or low-angle ice, you probably don't need your ice tool. But if you're doing a vertical ice climb, you'll need it. It's more difficult than it looks to properly swing an ice tool. Bad swings may cause ice to break off, and your energy will be sapped because you'll have swing multiple times for one stick. The only way to improve a swing is practice. Keep the elbow high and align it with both the hand and the tool. The straighter the swing, the more precise. With a good stick, the tool makes a satisfying "thunk" sound, as if it's been planted in concrete. You want a stick that will support your weight in case you lose your footing. If the tool doesn't feel planted correctly, pull it out and try again. Aim for spots where the ice looks strong -- convex-looking ice will usually plate and shatter. Sometimes dinner plating your way through bad ice can reveal stronger ice beneath. As the shattered ice falls, you'll be thankful for your helmet.

When you do a vertical climb, you'll go through the following motions: Find good footing, swing your tool into the ice, step up with both feet, swing higher, and step up again and so on. Each time you land your pick in the ice, you should move both feet up. Placing your feet is as important as placing your ice tool. You'll usually have to kick your crampons into the ice a few times to achieve solid placement unless the ice is soft. Your feet should always support more weight than your arms, so finding good footholds is paramount. Keep your body in a triangle shape, with your legs shoulder-width apart and your pick at the center. Keep your heels down as much as possible. Other ice climbing techniques include:

Cane: using your ice tool like a cane when traversing relatively flat terrain

Cross-body: used in conjunction with sidestepping, where you turn your body sideways to the slope

Low dagger: pushing your pick into the slope around waist or chest level, holding it by the head

High dagger: pushing your pick into the slope up above your head

Anchor: similar to high dagger, but you hold your axe at the bottom and pull yourself up by working your way up the shaft

Traction: used for very steep ice and with two tools, swinging them overhead and planting one at a time, as you make your way upward.

Rope systems

Top-roping.

Single, double, and twin rope are the three main rope systems used in ice climbing. The single rope system, which is suited for straight climbing routes, is the most commonly used rock climbing system in the world. Also often used in climbing is the double rope system which is a more flexible system than the single rope system. Lastly, the twin rope system, which uses two twin ropes in a single rope system, is used for longer multi-pitch routes. Double and twin rope technique is used more frequently in ice climbing because these systems are more redundant, an important consideration given the number of sharp edges the ice climber carries with him. Impact force on ice is an issue, with double ropes gaining popularity over twins.

Tying in

Tying in entails attaching your rope to the climbing harness. This technique is a must particularly when leading a climb or belaying. A commonly used tie-in knot is the Figure-of-eight follow through, but the Bowline and Thumb (stopper) knot is often preferred, since it is easier to untie when frozen. After the initial knot is tied, a safe and reassuring practice of tying a fisherman's knot as a backup is recommended. It is good to keep the knots close to the harness and together as one system. Once you tie-in, you will create a belay loop which will contain your belay device when needed. This technique should be done properly to ensure your safety when ice climbing.

Belaying

In this climbing technique, either running belays or fixed belays are used. A running belay on ice is similar to a running belay on rock as well as snow. The leader of the climb puts protection and clips the rope through it. The next climber puts away the protection. There should be at least two points of protection between the leader and the next climber. Fixed belays, on the other hand, require a bilayer, belay anchor, and points of protection. A belay anchor is attached to a cliff in supporting a belay or top rope. In using either a running- or fixed belay, it is necessary that you have enough knowledge on boot/ice-screw belay techniques.

Leading

Lead climbing in the Canadian Rockies

Leading refers to the act of leading a climb and thus, requires a leader and a follower. This ice climbing technique entails putting protection while ascending. In doing so, leading is done in sections. The leader places the protection as he/she climbs until he/she reaches the top of a pitch. At the top, the leader builds a belay anchor with which to belay the second climber. While the second climbs, he/she removes the protection placed by the leader. When the second climber finishes, they both proceed to the second pitch.

Abseiling

Also called rappelling, abseiling uses a fixed rope to descend. This technique is not only used to go down after a climb, it can also be used when trying new climbing routes and when there is a seemingly difficult access to the start of a climb. Careful execution is important when abseiling. There are the possibilities of jammed ropes, ropes becoming severed after getting in contact with sharp edges, and other cases of equipment failure.

Lowering

Lowering is one of the most common methods of getting down. A bilayer at the base of the vertical wall ensures that the climber is lowered safely. This climbing technique is used when going down routes where there are short, steep walls. This is also used when you want to go down faster.

Equipment

Ice climbing requires different equipment from regular rock climbing. Today's specialized ice climbing gear evolved from traditional climbing tools to allow more flexibility and safety on ice and snow. There are tons of tools to choose from depending on your skill, your terrain and your personal preference.

Ice tools are the most important and most expensive pieces of equipment an ice climber needs. When climbers talk about their ice tools, they're referring to what people often call axes. An ice tool does in fact act like an axe. You swing it into the ice and then use it as a grip while you push yourself up with your legs. The head of the tool is double-sided, with a pick on one side and an adze, a chisel-like tool used for chopping holes in ice, or hammer on the other. There are two varieties of ice tools -- traditional and leash less.

A traditional ice tool includes a leash that you wrap around your hand to help you keep hold of the tool. It's quite easy to drop a tool, and your tool does nothing for you if it's lying 20 feet (6 meters) below you on the ground. A leashed tool also comes in handy if you lose your footing and need to hang from the ice until you regain it. Of course, your rope and belay will also hold you, so your ice tool is not your sole protection.

The leash less ice tool, on the other hand, is less awkward, and it's easier to switch out tools when you're not tied to your gear. Leash less tools are becoming more popular among experienced climbers because of their flexibility. Ice tools come in all different weights and sizes, and many climbers carry several tools, depending on what sort of climb they're doing. Prices for ice tools run anywhere from $100 to $350.

 As we mentioned earlier, crampons are necessary for a climber to gain traction on snow and ice. Like cleats, crampons are sharp metal spikes that protrude from the bottom of your boots and dig into the ice as you climb. You may clip or strap crampons to the bottom of your boots, or wear boots with the crampons built-in. You also need to decide if you want to use mono-point or dual-point crampons. Crampons generally have spikes that stick out in the front of the shoe and usually make first contact with the ice. Mono-point crampons have a single point in front, whereas dual-point crampons have two points in front. Each type has its advantages. Mono-points tend to be more flexible for mixed climbing, when your terrain varies from ice to rock over the course of the climb. Mono-points provide better ice penetration, and dual-points offer more stability but less ice penetration. Some crampons also feature heel spurs.

Ice climbers protect themselves from falling by utilizing ice screws and ropes. Climbers call this process protection. As you progress through a climb, you place ice screws in strategic areas and clip in a rope, which will save your life if you fall. Well-placed screws can support hundreds of pounds of force. But remember -- ice screws are only as strong as the ice in which you've screwed them. We'll talk more about ice climbing safety measures later in this article.

Don't forget your helmet! You'll need it to protect your head and eyes from falling chunks of ice. And of course, appropriate cold weather clothing and gloves are necessary.

Safety

Ice climbing is dangerous in more ways than one. First of all, you need to protect your body from the elements by wearing layered clothing and dry gloves. Avalanches can happen without warning. Austrian climber Hari Berger died in 2006 after becoming trapped under 150 tons of ice during a routine training session. There's also always the risk of falling into a deep crevasse, hidden by a layer of snow. But without a doubt, the biggest precaution you must take while ice climbing is employing fall protection.

Ice climbers, like rock climbers, use belays as a safety measure during climbs. In fixed belaying, the climber wears a harness with a rope attached, and the rope prevents him or her from falling very far in case of a slip. Climbers usually belay in pairs, with a designated partner who remains on the ground and controls the rope. (Read more about the mechanics of belaying in "How Rock Climbing Works".) If more than one person is climbing, they employ running belays. As the lead climber progresses up the slope, he or she will place ice screws and clip the rope into those screws. The follower continues behind the leader, removing the lowest ice screws along the way. In a running belay, all climbers and ropes are on the ice, moving together. Experts recommend having at least two ice screws anchored at all times for backup safety. Climbers can also carve their own anchors out of ice -- this anchor is called a bollard -- and place the rope around those. Another option is to create a 'V'-shaped tunnel with ice screws, which is called an Abalakov after its innovator, and run the rope through that tunnel. Of course, the latter options take much longer to set up. Sometimes you can find natural anchors -- strong ice columns or rock protrusions.

When placing ice screws, it's important to ensure they're solidly secured in the ice. Clear away any soft ice or snow and start a hole using the pick on your ice tool. Secure the screw at about a 10-degree angle uphill from the direction of expected pull. The pull is the direction in which the rope will pull in the event of a fall. This means that if you're climbing on a steep or vertical surface, the screw would face slightly downward. Make sure you place screws at least 2 feet (0.6 meters) apart. Advancements in screw designs, like rotating handles, make it less laborious to get them into the ice. Keeping your screws sharpened and clean will also make this process easier.

Remember that once you reach the top, you'll still need to get back down. Plan your climb so you have enough time to make a safe descent. Nobody wants to climb down the side of an icy slope in the dark. You'll probably be tired and sore on the way down, so be extra careful.

Climbers should always carry first aid kits along with their gear. The pros advise a working knowledge of first aid, including how to apply a tourniquet, splint or treat frostbite. Gadgets, too, are every climber's friend. A handheld GPS device can help you find your way in the deep wilderness. Carrying an avalanche beacon is a lifesaver, assisting rescuers in locating you and your friends should you end up in that scary situation. And don't forget a shovel. It doesn't need batteries and can help you out of snow.

Ice Climbing Spots

Canmore, Alberta

I can live anywhere in the world, and I choose to live here for the ice. That says it all, really.

Ouray, Colorado

The most accessible, fun, and user-friendly place to get really good at vertical ice climbing.

Rjukan, Norway

Andreas Spak and his team at Rjukan Adventure have helped turn Rjukan in the Euro version of Ouray. So many routes, so much unexplored terrain, it's a must-visit on any ice climber's list.

Kanderstag, Switzerland

Not as reliable as the above three destinations, but when it's on its EPIC. Very much worth visiting even if the ice is junk, it's all Swiss and nice.

Helmcken Falls Spray Cave, British Columbia, Canada

Yosemite, California (Yosemite National Park)Yosemite National Park offers several ice climbing options including The Widow's Tears, Silver Strand and Upper Sentinel Falls.

Valdez, Alaska (Valdez-Cordova)Valdez, Alaska is often referred to as "the best ice climbing place in America" because there are literally hundreds of ice climbs in its vicinity.

Keene, New York (The Adirondack Wilderness)The Adirondack wilderness offer several ice climbs including the Pharaoh Mountain, Trap Dyke and Avalanche Lake.

Mammoth Lakes, CaliforniaThere are several climb options for skilled climbers at Mammoth Lakes including Deadman's Summit, Indiana Summit, the Geothermal Boulders, Rock Creek, Alabama Hills, and the Buttermilk.

Hand Gliding

Hand Gliding

Hang gliding is an air sport employing a foot-launchable aircraft known as a hang glider. Typically, a hang glider is constructed of an aluminum alloy or composite-framed fabric wing. The pilot is ensconced in a harness suspended from the airframe, and exercises control by shifting body weight in opposition to a control frame.

Hang gliding is an air sport in which a pilot flies a light and non-motorized foot-launch aircraft called a hang glider that is of a delta wing design. Most modern hang gliders are made of an aluminum alloy or composite-framed fabric ("sailing material derived from parachute fabric") wing. The pilot is ensconced in a harness suspended from the airframe, and exercises control by shifting body weight in opposition to a control frame, but other devices, including modern aircraft flight control systems, may be used.

In the sport's early days, pilots were restricted to gliding down small hills on low-performance hang gliders. However, modern technology gives pilots the ability to soar for hours, gain thousands of meters of altitude in thermal updrafts, perform aerobatics, and glide cross-country for hundreds of kilometers. The Federation Aéronautique Internationale and national airspace governing organizations control some aspects of hang gliding. Gaining the safety benefits from being instructed is highly recommended.

History.

Early hang glider designs did not reliably achieve safe flight, their builders lacking a comprehensive understanding of the underlying principles of flight. The first recorded controlled flights were by German engineer Otto Lilienthal, whose research, published in 1889, strongly influenced later designers. The type of aircraft employed by Lilienthal is now referred to as a hang glider. Further hang glider research was undertaken during the 1920s in Europe, Australia and the U.S.A, where designers tested several wing concepts and the 'pendulum weight-shift control system'.

In 1957 the American space agency NASA began testing various formats of a new wing called the Rogallo wing with the intent of possibly implementing the design as a recovery system for the Gemini space capsules. The wing's simplicity of design and ease of construction, in combination with its slow flight characteristics, did not go unnoticed by hang glider enthusiasts; Rogallo's flexible wing airfoil was soon adapted to the purpose of recreational flight, launching a hang glider Renaissance.

The hang glider's wing, called a delta wing or Rogallo wing, is an outgrowth of NASA engineer Francis Rogallo's research on kites and parachutes in the 1960s. Rogallo ­had proposed the wing as a method of returning spacecraft to Earth. The delta-wing parachute was lightweight, durable and highly maneuverable. Later, John Dickenson, Bill Moyes, Bill Bennett and Richard Miller developed the Rogallo wing into the modern hang glider and launched an immensely popular sport shared by millions of people worldwide.

The hang glider is actually a triangle-shaped airfoil, a modified parachute (known as a flexible wing) made of nylon or Dacron fabric. The triangular shape is maintained by rigid aluminum tubes and cables and is designed to allow air to flow over the surface to make the wing rise. Newer, high-performance hang-glider designs use a rigid wing with stiff aluminum struts inside the fabric to give it shape, eliminating the need for supporting cables.

Hang gliding is often confused with paragliding, though the two sports are quite different from one another.

On November 23, 1948, Francis Rogallo and Gertrude Rogallo applied for a kite patent for a fully flexible kited wing with approved claims for its stiffenings and gliding uses; the flexible wing or Rogallo wing, which in 1957 the American space agency NASA began testing in various flexible and semi-rigid configurations in order to use it as a recovery system for the Gemini space capsules. The various stiffening formats and the wing's simplicity of design and ease of construction, along with its capability of slow flight and its gentle landing characteristics, did not go unnoticed by hang glider enthusiasts. In 1960-1962 Barry Hill Palmer adapted the flexible wing concept to make foot-launched hang gliders with four different control arrangements. In 1963 Mike Burns adapted the flexible wing to build a kite-hang glider he called Ski plane. In 1963, John W. Dickenson adapted the flexible wing airfoil concept to make another water-ski kite glider; for this, the Federation Aéronautique International vested Dickenson with the Hang Gliding Diploma (2006) for the invention of the modern hang glider.

Since then, the Rogallo wing has been the most used wing for hang gliders. However, some hang gliders still use swept wings. An example of such a hang glider is the A-I-R ATOS VR and similar models.

Technique.

Launch techniques include foot-launching from a hill, tow-launching from a ground-based tow system, aero towing (behind a powered aircraft), powered harnesses, and being towed up by a boat. Modern winch tows typically utilize hydraulic systems designed to regulate line tension, this reduces scenarios for lock out as strong winds result in additional length of rope spooling out rather than direct tension on the tow line. Other more exotic launch techniques have also been used successfully, such as hot air balloon drops from very high altitude. When weather conditions are unsuitable to sustain a soaring flight, results in a top to bottom fight and referred to as "sled runs"

To launch, the pilot must run down a slope to get air moving across the wing at about 15 to 25 miles per hour (24 to 40 kph). This movement of air over the surface of the wing generates lift, the force that counters gravity and keeps the glider aloft. Once aloft, gravity (the weight of the hang glider and pilot) pulls the glider back toward Earth and propels the glider forward, continually causing air to flow over the wing.

In addition to the horizontal movement of air, hang gliders can get lift from rising currents of air, such as columns of hot air (thermal lift) or air deflected upward by mountainous or ridge topography (ridge lift). As the hang glider and pilot move through the air, they collide with air molecules. The frictional force caused by these collisions is known as drag, which slows the glider down. The amount of drag is proportional to the airspeed of the hang glider: The faster the glider moves, the more drag it creates (see How Gliders Work for details).

How a pilot maneuvers a hang glider

As with soar plane gliders, the balance of these three forces (lift, drag, gravity) determines how high the hang glider can go, how far it can travel and how long it can stay aloft. The performance of a hang glider and the distance it can travel is determined by its glide ratio (lift/drag ratio), the ratio of the forward distance traveled to the vertical distance dropped. Unlike soarplane gliders, hang gliders have neither movable surfaces on the wing nor a tail to deflect airflow and maneuver the craft. Instead, the pilot is suspended from the hang glider's center-of-mass (hence the term "hang" glider) by way of a harness, maneuvering the hang glider by shifting his or her weight (changing the center-of-mass) in the direction of the intended turn.

The pilot can also change the angle that the wing makes with the horizontal axis (angle of attack), which determines the airspeed and the glide ratio of the hang glider. If the pilot pulls back on the glider, tipping its nose down, the glider speeds up. If the pilot pushes forward on the glider, tipping its nose up, the glider slows down or even stalls. In stalling, no air flows over the wing so the glider can't fly.

Tips.

• Walk 360o around your glider, checking key areas; bolts, ropes, wires, buttons, wing tips, etc. Run your hands along the leading edge to verify there are no LE Mylar bends, check for symmetry. Pre-flight harness ropes/straps. Repeat if interrupted.

• Either hook-in your harness as part of your glider set-up (best method), and/or always hang check. Make sure harness lines are not twisted. Check your harness legs straps are secure. Develop a routine and use it every time.
• Be careful changing or adjusting your hang strap. Small hang loop position changes can affect the flight characteristics of your glider. Use a locked, steel carabineer.
• Buy the best full-face helmet and parachute. Re-pack yearly. Helmet choice is a personal preference so choose either open face or full face but make sure it has the padding that is needed to absorb impact.
• Be careful with new gear, or making changes. Small changes (wires, tip tuning, sail, mounting a camera, etc.)) can have a big effect on flying characteristics. Adding extra gear, like a drogue chute, can be useful in cases, but it can also cause accidents (such as when a drogue chute is deployed above the base tube). Think through any change to your glider and gear.
• Most launch errors occur because the glider wing, at the start of launch, is not properly aligned to the wind. Don’t initiate launch unless you have balance in roll and pitch.

• Lock-outs on tow can happen quickly. Both aero tow and static tow lockouts can occur. Follow the tug, know how to react, and release early if there is a problem. Use a 3 point release, that you can release from in <2 seconds. Tow with a fin. Don't push out at the start of the tow; if your weak link breaks, you could be in a stall and too low to recover. Before towing, make sure no lines are caught on the tow dolly. On aero tow, don't get low behind the tug - you will either hit the rotor from the tow plane or have to push out (stalled if released).
• It’s alright to take a few initial slow steps, but then run hard. Slow run launches can cause a wing to stall, the angle of attack change, and/or a wing tip to drag. Many launch whacks occur at high altitude, low wind and/or shallow slopes. These conditions take good launching skills and a strong run with proper glider positioning. Wear gloves that give you a good grip.
• If you are launching in winds that are too high for you alone to handle your glider, consider not launching, unless if you are very familiar with the site and wire crew.

• Create your own "rules" and stick to it, no matter what other pilots are doing.
• If you do launch in winds >20 mph, use a wire crew. Make sure to brief them on what to say and do. Use hang glider pilots to wire. If you use non-pilots, train them on how to wire before walking out to launch.
• After launch, get well clear of the hill before turning, or working on your harness zipper. Gain altitude. Don't turn into a ridge.
• Any hg wing can tuck, tumble and spin. Knowing your glider speeds, and keeping your airspeed is important in preventing tumbles and spins. Never, ever stall or slip near the ground.
• Enough cannot be said about avoiding existing or approaching poor weather. Don’t fly unless you are confident about current and future weather conditions. Check the forecast before flying. Avoid storm cells; don't fly if you see any thunderstorms (gust fronts can reach out 100 miles) or Cu-Nimbus. Fog/clouds can form quickly; watch trends. Study micro-meteorology.
• Clear your turns, and always keep in mind where the other pilots are. Don't assume another pilot sees you. Frequently scan the horizon for air activity. Fly with bright colors. Leave a gaggle if it is too crowded. Don't turn close to a mountain side in thermal conditions.
• Just don’t. Do everything you can to avoid a water landing.
• Learn how to exit your harness quickly in an emergency.
• The lee side of a hill or mountain can be ugly, and has put many a pilot down quickly with little control. Don’t go “over the back” without sufficient altitude. Keep well in front of ridges. Get even further in front of the ridge before you a traversing a canyon where compressed wind speed will increase.
• Don’t fly an advanced level glider, until you are ready for it. Wait until you squeak out every bit of juice from a lower-performance glider before moving up. And even then, question your reason for moving up.

• This typically happens to beginner or intermediate pilots flying a glider they are not ready for. If it happens, relax, loosen your grip, and slow your glider down.
• Rotor behind another aircraft can be severe and long lasting, the larger and slower the other aircraft.
• Don't get caught back on a ridge or in a place that you can't easily glide to an LZ. Take care of a venture effect when above canyons; your sink rate will increase dramatically in a canyon. Always assume a worse L/D to the LZ than you have.
• Most poor landings are a direct result of a poor landing pattern approach. Pick a big landing field that is uncrowded. Be conservative. Don't get close to tree tops. Take a long final, come in with sufficient speed, use the base bar, and avoid turns close to the ground. Watch for your base tube getting caught.
• Power lines are hard to see, and they can fry you like a hot dog. Try to avoid fields surrounded by power lines. Even safe on the ground, don’t walk under power lines while carrying your glider.

• Keep your eyes open for kites, RC planes, balloons, etc. An object caught in your side flying wire can make your glider un-controllable. Use/know FAA airspace maps.
• If you are injured, you will need support. Fly with a good 2M radio and cellphone.
• Unless you are in perfect tune with your glider, use wheels. They can save you in downwind landings, thermally active landing areas, or a premature jump off a tow cart. 
• Locking wheels will allow you to ground your glider in high winds.
• Avoid landing in the lee side of trees, buildings, mountains, cliff/ridge edges, etc. 
• These areas can put you on the ground before you are ready for it. Land as far as possible from rotor causing trees and buildings.
• Many pilots do not have sufficient landing skills. Practice. This is a skill that we can always improve. Don’t fly with uncoated front wires. Make sure your harness can not throw you under the glider nose in a whack. And at some point you will whack hard, so learn how to whack properly to avoid injury (let go of down tubes, arms balled up in front of you)
• Let an experienced local pilot, who knows the site intimately, launch first. Talk to them about conditions; weigh their opinion heavily. Don't be a wind dummy unless you are 100% sure of conditions.
• Don't fly fatigued, or with less than a high mental and physical standard.
• If you are in tuned with your glider or just do not like the idea of wheels. Think about wearing knee pads. It only takes one knee drop on a rock to do damage to your knee.

Types of Gliding.

Flexible Wing Gliders (class1)

These hang gliders look the most like the traditional gliders most people are familiar with, though they now are produced in many shapes and sizes. First designed by French engineer Francis Rogallo in the 1940s, hang gliding enthusiasts sometimes honor its inventor by referring to them as Rogallo Gliders. As the name of this class suggests, the wings are flexible. They are made of sailcloth and are stiffened into place through wire tubing. The pilot takes off and lands on his feet and steers the glider simply by shifting his weight. These gliders are popular for a variety of reasons. Their light weight make them easy to transport on the ground and maneuver in the air. They are also easy to take off and land. And, perhaps most important, their light weight allows for slow, leisurely gliding in the air.

Rigid Wing Gliders (class5)

This class of gliders looks more like airplanes without the tails than traditional hang gliders. These hang gliders were rare in the sport until they exploded in popularity over the past several years. Now they are commonly seen at hang gliding locations around the world. Rigid gliders are popular because they allow for more precise control than the flex gliders. This means pilots have better control over their speed and altitude, and fly greater distances. The wing controls are also more responsive, making it easier to correct mistakes. Though they are increasing in popularity, they are significantly more expensive than their flex wing cousins.

Ultralight Sailplanes (class2)

Most people would not think of sailplanes as hang gliders, but many areas classify any aircraft under a certain weight as a hang glider. Sailplanes are sturdy vehicles that can travel greater distances without losing much altitude, meaning longer and more satisfying flights. They look like small planes complete with a cockpit, wheels, and tail. For this reason, unlike flex and rigid wing gliders, these crafts cannot be launched or landed on foot. They need an assisted takeoff, usually being towed by a powered aircraft. This can make for more expensive outings, but if you have the money it is worth it.

Maneuvers.

Loop — a maneuver that starts in a wings level dive, climbs, without any rolling, to the apex where the glider is upside down, wings level (heading back where it came from), and then returning to the start altitude and heading, again without rolling, having completed an approximately circular path in the vertical plane.

Spin — a spin is scored from the moment one wing stalls and the glider rotates noticeably into the spin. The entry heading is noted at this point. The glider must remain in the spin for at least 1/2 of a revolution to score any versatility spin points.

Rollover — a maneuver where the apex heading is less than 90° left or right of the entry heading.

Climb over — a maneuver where the apex heading is greater than 90° left or right of the entry heading

Equipment.

1. Camera
2. Car Rack
3. Gliders
4. Glider Storage
5. Hang Glider Manufacturers
6. Harness
7. Helmet
8. Instruments
9. Parachute
10. Radios
11. Release Systems
12. Payout Winch
13. Open-Side Tow Dolly (Cart)
14. Sunglasses
15. Wheels

Best Hang Gliding spots.

Chamonix / Mont Blanc, France

Neuschwanstein Castle, Germany

Annecy, France

Treh, France

Babadag (Olüdeniz), Turkey

Dune du Pyla, France

Rio De Janeiro, Brazil

The Alps

Byron Bay, Australia

England

Norway

Nepal

Cape Town, South Africa

Tuscany, Italy

Kitty Hawk, North Carolina

Lookout Mountain, Tennessee

La Jolla, California

Salt Lake City, Utah